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16/11/2010 Portuguese wines beginning to break through |
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Variety: While Portugal’s most common grapes are aragones, cabernet sauvignon and syrah have also been creating a presence as the country’s wine gets more exposure. (Getty Images file photo)
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People have been whispering about Portugal’s potential for years, but Portuguese wines are still sparse on wine lists and retail shelves throughout the Bay Area. After decades of hope, Portuguese wines are starting to break through and it seems as if Alentejo, not the Douro, Portugal’s most famous wine region, will lead the way.
Located in the south of the country, Alentejo extends from the Atlantic Ocean to Spain. There is Alentejo, the region and Alentejo, the Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC), which is roughly equivalent to the French AOC. The area also has wines that do not fit the DOC criteria but are very good nonetheless.
Alentejo’s hot climate creates wines that are more fruit-forward and less acidic than those from the northern areas of Bairrada and Dao. While there are fantastic wines and very good quality found in these and other regions, the wines from Alentejo have a more natural appeal for the wine market.
The most common grapes are aragones (tempranillo), trincadeira, touriga nacional and alicante bouschet, a French cross between petit bouschet and grenache. Cabernet sauvignon and syrah also have a presence. On the white side, the native varietals verdelho and arinto are most common.
There is a variety in quality and price though the two do not always match up. Here are three from different price points that do, and then some.
Heredade do Esporao Reserva White, 2008 (Alentejo, Portugal): Under the guidance of an Australian, David Baverstock, Heredade do Esporao has become one of the standouts in Alentejo. Though Alentejo is better known for its red wines, this is terrific white made from antao vaz, arinto and roupeiro. Medium-bodied with a good, fleshy but balanced mouthfeel, it has banana and papaya fruit underscored by vibrant minerality. Suggested retail: €14,83
Dona Maria Amantis, 2005 (Alentejo, Portugal): Formerly known as Quinto do Carmo, this has been one of the most successful estates in the area, thanks in part to a large investment from Chateau Lafite Rothchild, which owns 50 percent of the company. Part of me feels guilty writing about it as it is dominated by nonindigenous grape varieties (30 percent each of syrah, petite verdot and cabernet sauvignon with 10 percent touriga nacional) but it still sings with terroir. Full-bodied with ripe berry fruit, black pepper, cocoa, a hint of vanilla and a long finish, this is a perfect introduction to Portugal if you are used to new world wines. Suggested retail: €22,25
Carmim Garrafeira Dos Socios, 2003 (Alentejo, Portugal): Carmim is a cooperative originally founded in 1962 and reformed in 1971. In addition to wine, olive oil, cheese and other agricultural products are made by hundreds of farmers. With a large number of growers, quality control can be a major task — but only the best fruit goes into this wine. Composed of castelao, trincadeira and aragones, it is reminiscent of a very good Rioja. With tobacco, fresh herbs, cherry-vanilla, silken tannins and incredible finesse, this is a great example of Alentejo’s potential. Suggested retail: €25,22
Laatst vernieuwd: Oct 07 2011 om 1:05 PM
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